Through the wall / My Fish Room

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
Might not have a female Krib when I get home from work. I had to run home to grab some things for work and took a quick peak into the fish room. The male has torn off most of her tail and he is 4in ish or the size of a good cigar.
 

lloyd378

Administrator
Staff member
Contributing Member Level III
I bought those same bulbs at petco about six months ago, and one finally sprouted and we have small little Lilly pads at the top of the tank now.

sorry to hear about your female. My guess is the male didn’t want to have to buy her a Christmas gift… haha

but seriously, that sucks.
 

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
I bought those same bulbs at petco about six months ago, and one finally sprouted and we have small little Lilly pads at the top of the tank now.

sorry to hear about your female. My guess is the male didn’t want to have to buy her a Christmas gift… haha

but seriously, that sucks.
The male had staked out a claim in a bamboo tube so I removed him.
The Cory cats spawned after I did a water change and forgot to plug their heater back in. Swordtails or kribs ate the eggs though.
 

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
I moved some crypts from the 120g to the 260g since I stole the light. They are planted in a brick of organic potting soil wrapped with fiberglass window screen. The roots are well established and I haven't seen any interest from anyone, yet.PXL_20211117_230128824.jpgPXL_20211117_230117353.jpg
 

John58Ford

Well-Known Member

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
If that japonica will run the substrate in your tanks let us know, I have wanted to try it vs my dwarf chain swords, I just didn't think it would survive without some CO2 supplementation.
I am seeing moderate CO2 recommended so we shall see. I have the CO2 kit from years ago so I could hassle with it...o_O
 

John58Ford

Well-Known Member
I am seeing moderate CO2 recommended so we shall see. I have the CO2 kit from years ago so I could hassle with it...o_O
It's one of those things that you and I might get away with though, "overstocked" breeding tanks and such tend to run in on the side of "some" CO2 when you compare kH readings and pH levels, you might get it to work without hitting the bottle. I personally won't run CO2, it's the hard line on the floor in my fish room, the upkeep cost and failure modes are too much to do it right. I would hate to see what an appropriate size bottle to run my planted tanks would do if the diffuser, regulator, or timer failed. Mass trauma I'm certain.
 
Last edited:

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
If you're running a 12v power supply, I have found Led driving/fog modules work great, I use the lower output strip lights like those to widen the spectrum and/or for Twilight with colors only.

Can't find the exact ones but basically these:Linkstyle 12PCS Daytime Running Light, Car Interior Exterior LED Strip Light Super Bright 12V Underglow Lights Universal Waterproof COB DRL Running Lamp for Truck Boat Bike RV Motorcycles, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DCKB41W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_FD866XJJ6J6Z3QAA5W00

A few of these per tank and plants grow like mad, you do need to put a drip off epoxy where the wires run into the cage though, these guys get too hot for the adhesive the factory used.
I was looking at the lights you posted in the link. That's a really creative idea. Correct spectrum light is still light even if it doesn't say "Aquarium plant light."
 

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
Update on the japonica. It died off in the lower 29g where I have the wood cats but looks to be doing ok in the upper 29g with the Nanochromis splendens. The lower tank is on the end of the rack while the upper tank is in the middle.
The lower tier has a Fluvial/Finnex/Current USA led plant light while the upper tier has a HD led shop light. Both lights hang about 3-4in off the tanks and run off the same timer so equal day schedule.PXL_20220106_182420851.jpgPXL_20220106_182426244.jpg
 
Last edited:

John58Ford

Well-Known Member
I was looking at the lights you posted in the link. That's a really creative idea. Correct spectrum light is still light even if it doesn't say "Aquarium plant light."
They really have done well. Each "bar" has a pair of white for every 10" of tank length, and a couple RGB (fixed emitter, not controllable RGB) strips that help set color temperature for viewing. I have some deep crimson strips that need to get added to the bars, I plan to add them when one burns out and needs service, but that hasn't happened yet.

The RGB run for 12-13 hours daily, and the whites for 10-11. I tweak them in 15 minute increments when I'm feeling fancy. I run 2 adjustable power supplies, with the whites usually set at 11-11.5 volts and the colors set at 12-13v. They can all handle 14.5 but it gets to be too much for the eyes turned up.

Here's a shot of one that is over a 20 long, same as the 29s get. It's kinda like photographing the sun, excuse the extreme under exposure:
20220106_121442_HDR~2.jpg
And the power supplies mounted over the upper middle 10:
20220106_121459_HDR.jpg

The lights are mounted on galvanized drip edge. I don't remember the cost per foot light total but it was something crazy like $3. Keeps the rack consistently lit too which is important to us since our fish room ajoins the family/tv room and the tanks are on display 24/7 to all residents and guests.
 

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
They really have done well. Each "bar" has a pair of white for every 10" of tank length, and a couple RGB (fixed emitter, not controllable RGB) strips that help set color temperature for viewing. I have some deep crimson strips that need to get added to the bars, I plan to add them when one burns out and needs service, but that hasn't happened yet.

The RGB run for 12-13 hours daily, and the whites for 10-11. I tweak them in 15 minute increments when I'm feeling fancy. I run 2 adjustable power supplies, with the whites usually set at 11-11.5 volts and the colors set at 12-13v. They can all handle 14.5 but it gets to be too much for the eyes turned up.

Here's a shot of one that is over a 20 long, same as the 29s get. It's kinda like photographing the sun, excuse the extreme under exposure:
View attachment 10969
And the power supplies mounted over the upper middle 10:
View attachment 10970

The lights are mounted on galvanized drip edge. I don't remember the cost per foot light total but it was something crazy like $3. Keeps the rack consistently lit too which is important to us since our fish room ajoins the family/tv room and the tanks are on display 24/7 to all residents and guests.
$3/ft of tank for lights?
 

John58Ford

Well-Known Member
$3/ft of tank for lights?
I think it was close to that yeah, the rack is 160 inches of tanks/13.3'. I think when I bought the lights the whites were $10/12pk ($1.6/'), and the rgb were $4/10pk($0.4/'), drip edge $4/10'($0.4/') putting the light assemblies just at $2.4/'. I run dual power supplies but one alone could handle all of it. I think the nice one with the internal fan was $18 or as installed $1.35/' bringing it up to $3.75 per foot of effective lighting.

The power supply being the un-even cost though, the cheaper supply was about $12, it can also run the whole thing but it gets too warm for my standards and I ordered the fancier one for the whites. I think the math on the power usage put me at about 40% used as configured, or 85% if I was on one supply (the amperage is wonky with LEDs and voltage differences) so if used to the edge it is probably closer to the $3 mark than $4.

Edited: it might be noted that I'm not actually using the racks internal lighting on the 29 with the lily. I built the light and it's sitting on top of the rack unused, I tried it and it kept interfering with the snakes heating pad controller (the tank above it), so for now I'm using a set top light in that position until the snake passes away and we switch to tree frogs.
 
Top