Started down the Tropheus hole

sir_keith

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Contributing Member Level III
The colony was fine for a while in a 48 x 12" tank, but there were 12+ of them at that point. That would be a long-term solution if it worked out, and might offer the opportunity of producing fry, but you'd have to watch them carefully at the outset. Perhaps adding some Australian rainbows as dithers to this tank might help, and/or partitioning the 55 with something other than egg crate, something that is more opaque? I've never tried anything smaller than 48 x 12" for adults, so I'm really not sure which, if either, of the other tanks would be a better bet. No matter what you choose to do, it's a gamble, so they'll have to be watched carefully.
 

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
So, because I am down to eight having lost my one juvenile to the bullies. I have let the one seriously injured fish convalesce and it is healing up nicely. The wound never festered or fuzzed and he never lost appetite either. Skin is growing over the injured site. Two more weeks maybe and I will try reintroducing him to the colony.
I have also added more rock and PVC pipe hides and left the lights off.
 

sir_keith

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Contributing Member Level III
Wow, that's great. I wouldn't have predicted that from the size of the wound, but Tropheus do have amazing rejuvenative capacities.
 

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
It is interesting to observe that a lone Tropheus gets mopey even when the barrier allows view of the colony. The one that was injured swims with the rest but was mopey in isolation. Now the dominant male is in isolation and mopey.
Can't live with each other but can't live without each other. o_O:rofl
 

sir_keith

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It is interesting to observe that a lone Tropheus gets mopey even when the barrier allows view of the colony. The one that was injured swims with the rest but was mopey in isolation. Now the dominant male is in isolation and mopey.
Can't live with each other but can't live without each other. o_O:rofl
Yes, these are highly social fishes that live in large groups in the lake, and they languish when kept alone in captivity. As you've discovered, just seeing conspecifics is not enough; they need to interact with them in a more substantive way, and those interactions form the basic fabric of the Tropheus social hierarchy. Because intraspecific aggression is one of the dominant interactions among group members, the group must be relatively large, at least 10 individuals, and preferably two or three times that number, in order to spread the aggression around, and thus maintain the overall stability of the colony. We learned all these lessons the hard way when Tropheus were first imported. At that time, if bloat didn't get them (inappropriate diet), then intraspecific aggression (inappropriate social environment) would. Here is a video from Tropheus expert Pam Chin of Tropheus in the wild, which provides clues on keeping them in captivity-


Interestingly, I have found that many Tanganyikan cichlids from diverse genera do poorly if they are kept in the absence of conspecifics. These include genera that are highly social (Cyprichromis, Enantiopus, some Xenotilapia, etc.) as well as genera that are more solitary or pair-oriented (some Xenotilapia, Aulonocranus, Triglochromis, etc.). This is easily observed when brooding females, for example, are moved to isolation tanks: they do much better in the presence of one or two non-brooding female 'midwives' than they do alone.

These kinds of behaviors are what make Tanganyikan cichlids so challenging, and to my mind, so interesting.
 

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
I can order a dozen 4in or twenty 1in Bemba for about the same cost from Dave’s Rare Fish. I think I will call them Monday and see what they recommend for trying to enlarge the colony.
@sir_keith what do you think?
 

sir_keith

Legendary Member
Contributing Member Level III
I can order a dozen 4in or twenty 1in Bemba for about the same cost from Dave’s Rare Fish. I think I will call them Monday and see what they recommend for trying to enlarge the colony.
@sir_keith what do you think?
I would get the larger fishes, because the juveniles will be mostly ignored, and thus, won't serve as effective 'dithers' for the adults. Furthermore, getting larger fishes will likely result in fry sooner rather than later, so you can raise up as many as you like. A big colony in a 220 would be awesome. But do ask Dave; I'll be interested to hear his opinion. Either way, I would highly recommend that you move both batches of fishes into the 220 at the same time.

While you're on the phone, could you ask Dave how many Xenotilapia singularis he has available? I was planning to order a group from him a little while back, but he only had 7 in stock. But maybe if you and I did a group order and split shipping?
 

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
I would get the larger fishes, because the juveniles will be mostly ignored, and thus, won't serve as effective 'dithers' for the adults. Furthermore, getting larger fishes will likely result in fry sooner rather than later, so you can raise up as many as you like. A big colony in a 220 would be awesome. But do ask Dave; I'll be interested to hear his opinion. Either way, I would highly recommend that you move both batches of fishes into the 220 at the same time.

While you're on the phone, could you ask Dave how many Xenotilapia singularis he has available? I was planning to order a group from him a little while back, but he only had 7 in stock. But maybe if you and I did a group order and split shipping?
For sure on adding both to the 220 at the same time.
I will let you know how the conversation goes with Dave. Will do on the Xeno’s. How many are you looking for?
 

sir_keith

Legendary Member
Contributing Member Level III
For sure on adding both to the 220 at the same time.
I will let you know how the conversation goes with Dave. Will do on the Xeno’s. How many are you looking for?
I'd really like to get at least 10-12 of the X. singularis. These are really gregarious fishes, and do best in groups. I've kept them in the past, but they didn't compete very well with Ophthalmotilapia for space on the substrate, so next time I will let them have the bottom all to themselves.

IMG_0457.jpg
 

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
Ok, order placed with Dave’s Rare Fish for 20 juveniles. I will use the 220g to grow them out a bit before adding the adult colony.
 

DMD123

Administrator
Staff member
Contributing Member Level III
Awesome! Though there was that moment where I was a bit afraid you were going to jab yourself with the aquarium scissors... :rofl
 

fishguy1978

Legendary Member
Water chemistry adjustment with Baking Soda:
1TBSP/5gal 22 degrees Kh
1tsp/5gal 14 degrees Kh
1.25tsp/5gal 16 degrees Kh
1.5tsp/5gal 17 degrees 8.3ph
I only tested ph when i was at the desired Kh. Now I can buffer my tanks for pennies rather than SeaChem dollars.
 
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