Yes, the four shutoff valves on the two fixtures are completely independent.Thanks for the equipment update @sir_keith. I like the shut off valves you used. From the look of it each supply line can be shut off individually, independent of each other? As opposed to the two way types they sell that the one shut off shuts both outputs off.
Interesting choice on the stainless hose... pretty much kink proof but how is the weight factor on it?
I believe that mixing valves of this sort are legal in all of WA State according to RCW 19.27A.070- Hot Water Heaters- Temperature regulation. The primary concern of the code is that water coming out of any hot water faucet or fixture not exceed 120°F, however that is achieved.Seeing that configuration for the water heater is neat. I wonder if that meets code in my jurisdiction, I always run the tank cold refilling my 180 gallon tank.
I just looked that over and I thought that reg only applies to a residence that is being rented our leased and the owner or occupant can adjust the output to any temp they want afterward. So as long as you don't sell the home with water leaving the taps above 120, you don't need to worry about the regulation. Am I mistaken?I believe that mixing valves of this sort are legal in all of WA State according to RCW 19.27A.070- Hot Water Heaters- Temperature regulation. The primary concern of the code is that water coming out of any hot water faucet or fixture not exceed 120°F, however that is achieved.
You are more-or-less correct. The installer of the equipment and the owner of a property are required to set the temperature to 120°F. What an occupant does is not covered. None of these details are relevant to the original question of whether mixing valves meet code.I just looked that over and I thought that reg only applies to a residence that is being rented our leased and the owner or occupant can adjust the output to any temp they want afterward. So as long as you don't sell the home with water leaving the taps above 120, you don't need to worry about the regulation. Am I mistaken?
I must have misunderstood the question of which code was in question. I just saw the one you posted about the temps. The thought of Washington State telling us what temp we could have our hot water doesn't seem too far removed from reality though.You are more-or-less correct. The installer of the equipment and the owner of a property are required to set the temperature to 120°F. What an occupant does is not covered. None of these details are relevant to the original question of whether mixing valves meet code.
It's to prevent us from hurting ourselves, of course.I must have misunderstood the question of which code was in question. I just saw the one you posted about the temps. The thought of Washington State telling us what temp we could have our hot water doesn't seem too far removed from reality though.
Seems like a bit more every year.
It's been nearly 3 months since I installed the new water-delivery-system for my fish room, so I thought I'd do an update. The system is working great; my only regret is that I didn't do this upgrade sooner.OK, so onward to the 2025 fish room update, which is not in the fish room per se, but in its supporting facilities. And at the outset, I want to thank @John58Ford for providing not only the initial impetus for doing this upgrade, but for practical advice as well.
When I first set up the fish room in my new home 12 years ago I was frustrated by the fact that my hot water supply limited how many tanks I could service at one time. My home is a single-level L-shaped structure that consists of a main wing parallel to the waterfront and a guest wing perpendicular to it. The two wings have separate hot water supplies: the guest wing runs off a standard 50 gallon electric water heater, and the main wing has a large-capacity flow-through system with two holding tanks that supply hot water to the master bath, jacuzzi tub, and in-floor heating system. Unfortunately, the fish room is at one end of the house, and the main bath is at the other, more than 150 feet away. The electric water heater is in-between the two, and it's the only practical way to get hot water to the fish room. But an old 50 gallon tank supplying hot water to a ~1000 gallon fish room? Do the math.
A few weeks ago one of the two heating elements in my hot water heater failed: I still had hot water in that part of the house, but not much of it. This was a blessing in disguise, really, as it motivated the update described below.
Step 1 was to replace the water heater. The heater resides in a small purpose-built closet, so there was no option to go to a different and/or larger system. So we installed a new Rheem unit with a mixing valve to increase the effective volume of hot water. The way this works is that the water in the tank, nominally about 50 gallons, is heated to 165°F rather than the code-mandated output of 120°F, and there is a mixing valve on top of the unit that mixes the 165°F water exiting the tank with cold water to obtain 120°F at the hot water faucets. This effectively increases the amount of 120°F water available. The installed system looks like this-
View attachment 14969
Step 2 was to install a second mixing valve and associated plumbing in the laundry room to mix hot 120°F water with cold water, resulting in a constant outflow of 80°F water for my fish tanks. Here is the area below my laundry room sink prior to the installation-
And here is the heart of the new system-
The mixing valve has an adjustable working range of 68-120°F, so 80°F is in its sweet spot. This particular valve has male 1/2NPT connections for the hot and cold water inputs and the mixed water output, so it does not need adaptors to go from Euro to US fittings. The output is connected to a ball valve that has a bleed port just downstream of the shutoff, so after use the ball valve can be closed and the bleed port opened to drain the hose to the fish room (the fish room is 4 steps lower than the laundry room). Finally, the output of the ball valve is connected to a 1/2NPT to 3/4GHT adaptor, to which the female end of the 75' supply hose is fastened. Here is a pic of the valve and associated plumbing installed in my laundry room. The incoming water lines are connected to fittings that have shut off valves for both the sink and mixing valve sides of the system-
View attachment 14972
Everything stows neatly when not in use, and since we were doing all this plumbing anyway, I installed a new faucet on the laundry room sink-
View attachment 14975
View attachment 14976
Here is the new setup in action; three things are going on- (i) the 75g on top is being pumped out into the garden using a pump @John58Ford suggested and a lightweight garden hose, (ii) the 40L down below is being filled with 80°F water from the laundry room using a 75' drinking water-certified stainless steel hose (which is awesome!), and (iii) I'm rummaging around the fish room trying to find my beer (in hiding on top of the 75G ).
View attachment 14977
Bottom line- I couldn't be happier with the new setup. I haven't pushed it yet to see just how much 80°F water I can get out of the system without giving it a recovery period, but it is clearly much higher than previous setup. In fact, at these flow rates I don't know that I can outrun the system. What I do know is that the new water heater takes only ~35 minutes to replenish the tank completely after I've withdrawn 120 gallons of 80°F water. Furthermore, as the mixing valve in the laundry room is rock-solid, varying by less than 1-2°F during the whole process, I am confident that I can trust the system to deliver 80°F water even as the 165°F water in the tank is being withdrawn and replenished. I'll keep you posted, but I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if I can do the whole fish room in a few hours.![]()
That’s great to hear! What water heater do you go with that affords you so quick turn around? I wish mine ( only 5 years old) was that efficient!It's been nearly 3 months since I installed the new water-delivery-system for my fish room, so I thought I'd do an update. The system is working great; my only regret is that I didn't do this upgrade sooner.
First, the new water heater is da bomb. The old heater was a 2008 model, and its time-of-recovery compared to the new unit was like a Ford Model T compared to a Ferrari Superfast. WIth 165°F water in the tank mixed down to 120°F at the hot-water outlet, I can easily get 200+ gallons of 80°F water when running the water continuously. And since the recovery time is so fast (~30 minutes after draining 200 gallons of 80°F water), the water heater can easily keep up with me as I use up hot water, which is to say, I can do my whole fishroom in one go. That's a sea change from what I was able to do with the old system.
Second, the hot-cold mixing valve in the laundry room that provides 80°F water is rock-solid, not varying by more than 1-2°F during the whole process. I was concerned that the temperature of the output might vary more than that, but was pleasantly surprised. Not having to fuss with the temperature during water changes is a huge plus.
Finally, the chance I took on the stainless steel hose has also paid off, big time. The hose is very flexible, super light, and never kinks, just a joy to work with. The only negative comments in online reviews concerned it's durability, and that might be an issue if used as a garden hose, which leads a tough life, but as long as I'm careful not to tug on the ends or step on it, I see no reason that it can't last a long time.
So just two words to anyone contemplating doing a mixing valve setup for your fishroom- Do It.![]()
It's a Rheem Professional Classic 50 gallon electric water heater, which seems to be their top-of-the-line unit of this type. I talked with the company that did the installation about what I was trying to accomplish with this upgrade, and this was their recommendation. Apparently the newer units are significantly more efficient than they were previously.That’s great to hear! What water heater do you go with that affords you so quick turn around? I wish mine ( only 5 years old) was that efficient!
I have a rheem too, but no where as powerful or efficient as yours! I’m a bit jealous.It's a Rheem Professional Classic 50 gallon electric water heater, which seems to be their top-of-the-line unit of this type. I talked with the company that did the installation about what I was trying to accomplish with this upgrade, and this was their recommendation. Apparently the newer units are significantly more efficient than they were previously.